October 12, 2020

An Interview with Spinning Teacher Yoshiko Nakajima 2/3

This is part two of the interview with Yoshiko Nakajima, who has lived most of her life with textiles as a homespun artist and full-time instructor at Kawashima Textile School. She talked about what is interesting about homespun, re-examining her relationship with objects, a simple way of life, hiking that she started in her 40s, and the unique sense of weaving she has gained from it. The interviewer is Director Kozue Yamamoto.

(Continued from part 1)


◆ Wool covers a wide range of use

-What part of homespun appeals to you?

The practicality and the variety of wool. In wool, there is a wide range of things that can be made since there are many types of sheep, from hard wool for rugs and such, and delicate, soft wool for things that touch your skin. In Japan, the conditions for keeping different types of sheep are not met due to such things as the climate and culture, but there is a wide variety of wool itself and it is interesting to be able to weave with a yarn that suits what you are making.

−Yes, that is the best part.

If you use ready-made yarn, you have to choose from a limited number of types, and we have to adjust to the yarn. If you spin it yourself, the best part is that you can spin the yarn considering various factors the yarn itself will hold, such as the thickness, twist, and texture. Even if you don't know if you have the ability to do it, you can try it. Whether it works out or not, you can still learn from the results of the challenge, so that still interests me very much.

−What do you want to try now?

I'm weaving clothing fabric now. What shocked me about homespun was the volume of the items and the usefulness of the fabric that I saw in Mr. Arikawa's exhibition of clothing fabric. It has all the necessary conditions for clothes, such as breathability, elasticity, lightness, and ease of wearing. It is interesting that the fabric is made into clothes and then used. I've always wanted to make that kind of clothing fabric, but it takes time to get started. Now I have more time than before, and I have material that I bought a long time ago. I am focusing, thinking that I should work now since there is a limit to my physical strength due to my age.


◆ Seeing materials, history, and social movements through textiles

−Do you think life and woven fabrics have a close relationship?

I think so, but nowadays, there are less natural fibers in things like the clothes you wear, and more jerseys and knits than woven fabrics. The speed of change is fast, and I wonder what will happen in the future.

-Do you create with the environment in mind?

Woven fabrics, especially natural fibers, are closely related to the environment, so I think about it very much. In particular, many natural products can only be harvested once a year, like rice. In Japan, sheep are sheared once a year. Hemp and cotton also have a harvest season. On the other hand, since chemical fibers are made from things such as petroleum, they can be manufactured regardless of the season or climate. While convenient, I have concerns of it dominating textiles. In everyday life, human beings are expanding their distance from nature, and I don't think that is good.

−I agree.

If people could really feel that all the clothing, food, and shelter they are involved in every day are all born from nature, and that they can only be made in a limited amount, I think they would be able to take good care of things, but I think the world is not like that nowadays. I think it is important for people to learn and feel the relationship with objects through textiles. For example, the material and feel of silk, wool, cotton and linen. If you have a chance to wear it, you would understand how nice they feel, but if they are distant, people would not be interested in it.

−Since the classes at the school mainly use natural fibers, I hope students will gradually feel how nice, and how valuable natural fibers are, and that it would bring them to reconsider their relationship with things. Did your awareness deepen while working in weaving?

Yes, In the process of making, I naturally become interested in the materials. Through textiles, my perspective expands from materials to history and society, such as how and what kind of people raise the sheep, and what the current situation is. Creating brings me joy and happiness. On the other hand, the difficulty also becomes apparent.

Clothing fabric which has just recently been finished


◆ Keeping belongings as simple as possible

−Is there a key point in why you have been able to continue weaving?

It's because I simply like it. And I try not to carry too many things on my back. Possessing things uses energy, such as paying attention to maintenance, so I keep my belongings as simple as possible. It's easy if you have your own values. I live in a traditional nagaya (row house) in Kyoto. There are only 3 rooms, and the largest is 6 tatami mats*. I have two looms, and I sleep next to them. Even if I live in a space like a workshop, that is enough for me. I am satisfied with it. If I didn't like that, I could save money and make an atelier, but I don't want to spend time working for that. I want to spend as much time as I can on weaving, so it's best if I can manage with what I have.

*about 11 sqm.

−When did you start to see your own values?

It was formed with weaving. Looking at the world through eyes of the time, as the fabric takes shape, I have come to think that in the midst of all the ways that people live, for me, spending my life this way, creating, is good. Making naturally teaches you. I am able to spend my time doing what I want to do, so I think this is good.


◆ Weaving and the mountains, from the smallest unit to the infinite

-The richness and leeway of spending time in the process of making, not the measure of the speed of time, all comes back to you. Weaving has that kind of principle. By the way, when talking about you, we can't forget about hiking. I heard that you started in your 40s, but was it from anticipating that weaving requires physical strength?

The motive was play (laughs). I just go to the mountains because it's interesting. Until then, I wasn't confident in my physical strength, and I think it was good as a result. Weaving is work and mountains are play, but I have continued both of them only because I like them.

−What is interesting about the mountains?

Forgetting about everyday life and concentrating on walking. Otherwise, there are dangerous places. Weaving is nerve-wracking, so it could be that I go to the mountains to rest my nerves.

−When weaving, we stay cooped up at home, so it's a good balance to have activities both inside and outside.

Woven fabric is a tiny world where the warp and weft intersect, starting from the smallest unit. The mountains are wide and the natural scale is completely different. When you look at the scenery, you will realize the immeasurable power of nature. The two are connected within me. Woven fabrics are physically finite because their width is determined by the size of the loom. However, the small, incorporated structure itself, which is constructed as a fabric, can sometimes feel endlessly expansive. I imagine fabric being a small part cut out of it. I feel that woven fabrics have an interesting aspect in being able to make people feel a sense of an endless expanse from a tiny world.

-You are very energetic, going to the mountains the day after a workshop ends. It's important to change your mood in that way, and I'm sure there's something beyond your tiredness when you go. Such a way of life is attractive.

If you continue walking in the mountains, you will notice that before, you could walk the same course faster, or you could walk in a place with poor footing without any fear, and you can see that your physical strength is decreasing. Physical strength is required for both the mountains and weaving. Especially so for homespun. You won't be able to go to the mountains when you lose your strength, but with weaving, as you continue, several little realizations pile up, and push you to do what you're doing.


Continued to part 3 (Oct. 20, 2020)

October 7, 2020

Workshop: Introduction to Weaving (Dec. 15-19, 2020)


We have planned a new workshop, open to people living in Japan (for the time being, due to travel restrictions). We look forward to meeting you!


Date: Dec. 15 (Tue.) - 19 (Sat.), 2020 (5 days) 9:00-16:00
Tuition Fee: 55,000 yen (without tax, materials fee included)
Capacity: 4-8 students
Language: English
Application Deadline: 9:00 (JST) Nov. 16 (Mon.), 2020

Please click here for further information and how to apply. 

October 6, 2020

An Interview with Spinning Teacher Yoshiko Nakajima 1/3

At Kawashima Textile School there is a full time instructor who has been teaching homespun consistently. Yoshiko Nakajima has spent 40 years at the school, and more as an artist, and has been showing us what it is to "continue" to work in weaving. Director Kozue Yamamoto, who is a graduate of the school, interviewed Yoshiko Nakajima. We will be sharing the interview in three parts, in which she spoke in depth about her work and life. The first part is on how she started hand weaving, her time as an apprentice, how she encountered homespun, and how she paved her way by studying on her own.



◆ Leaving a job in design and entering a workshop as an apprentice

-You majored in Design at the Kyoto City University of Arts. Please tell us how you encountered handweaving.

I first encountered handweaving at Kawashima Textile School. After graduating from university, I started working at an interior company in Nagoya, and my job was to draw designs on paper. That company gave high priority on employee training, and in my first year, my boss told me that Kawashima Textile Manufacturers Ltd. (now Kawashima Textiles Selkon Ltd. Co.) opened a school, so he wanted me to study there. I took a dobby weaving class for a month, and for the first time experienced the process of how fabric is made.

-I wonder if weaving became interesting to you by studying at the school?

I thought, "I didn't know there was a world like this, maybe this suits me better than drawing designs." I became more and more eager to weave myself, and I was very sorry for the company, but I left after about two years. After that I moved to Kyoto, found a place to live, and started looking for a workshop. First I consulted my professor at the university, hoping there could be a place where they could teach me. I was introduced through a number of people, and ended up working as an apprentice for textile artist Tsugio Odani in his workshop.

-When you have a strong desire to do something, there is an inevitable tendency of connecting with people.

Fateful encounters. It was a life saver. I learned while helping Mr. Odani's production, and was shocked to see the reality of manufacturing, in which the drawing on paper is not the end. He actually wanted someone who could weave. However, at that time I was not ready to. Still, he didn't tell me to quit, let me do what I could, and I was able to experience the process starting from dyeing and preparing the yarn for weaving.

In the Kawashima Textile School Atelier, 1974


◆ The historical backdrop of the Mingei boom

-What was the workshop like?

Mr. Odani mainly created tsumugi (pongee) or kasuri (ikat) kimono, and craft products such as zabuton (square cushions) in different materials according to the season, such as cotton, silk, hemp, kudzu (arrowroot), wool, and the studio had plenty of tools such as yarn twisting machines. It was good to have the opportunity to get to know various textiles, come into contact with different fibers, learn the basics of the origins of fabric and how they are constructed.

-Were there many workshops at the time?

There was a Mingei boom in the 70s, and I think it was thriving in different areas of Japan. Mr. Odani was an apprentice of Etsutaka Yanagi, textile artist and nephew of Sōetsu Yanagi, and if anything, he was closer to Mingei.

-Were you not afraid of losing economic stability, by quitting your job?

No, I wasn't. I think it's because I didn't think too much about it. I wonder if there was an atmosphere of the times such as the student movement. I might have been worried if I had worked for a company for a longer time, but I was young. At that time, there were many workshops, and I was convinced that the products made would be distributed smoothly. I thought that if a person who was much older than me could make a living in that way, I would be able to as well. Looking back on it now, that was thoughtless (laughs).


◆ Paving a path of homespun by studying on your own

-When did you first encounter homespun?

At first it was at the workshop. Mr. Odani would weave handspun scarves in the winter, so I would prepare the wool by washing, dyeing, loosening it and such. After that the spinning process was done by an American student, and by watching I learned the whole process there, of how wool would turn into fabric.

My real encounter was at an exhibition. Mr. Hironao Arikawa has a workshop in Morioka (Iwate prefecture), and is a fellow apprentice of Mr. Odani. Mr. Arikawa was going to have an exhibition in Kyoto, so Mr. Odani went to help. I also went to see it, and saw a homespun fabric for clothes for the first time, and I experienced a big shock that something like that could be done with handweaving.

-The second shock. There you encountered wool.

Yes. I left my apprenticeship at the studio at two years, but I wasn't clear about what kind of weaving I would do in the future. I tried weaving with cotton and silk but somehow it didn't feel right, and taking that encounter at the exhibition as an opportunity, I decided on wool. I studied design, so I am attracted to practicality. If it is a piece of clothing it can be used in daily life, and I liked the feel of wool. For me, the fact that I got the perspective of using fabric that I wove myself in daily life was significant.

-Did you study homespun on your own?

I studied it on my own. I wouldn't have a salary if I worked as an apprentice at another workshop, so financially, I had to continue by myself. I didn't have much because I left work, so I started, thinking I would do it myself. I encountered many people and fabric, and learned through books and workshops, so it didn't feel impossible. I set myself up through the help of many people, by trying methods with wool I saw and heard about at Mr. Odani's workshop on my own, and joining Mr. Arikawa's classes.

-It's amazing that you started on your own from the very beginning.

In learning, some things can be done without being taught from others. Homespun has been done at home for a long time, so I didn't think it would be that difficult. I also didn't understand the difficulty.

-Both yarn and weaving don't have a right or wrong. You have pursued that.

You continue with your own judgment because you can't compare. It is a lot of work just to spin and weave, so at first I had a sense of fulfilment just by making something.

Continued to part 2 (Oct. 12, 2020)