This is a series that covers the classes of skilled dyeing expert Masaru Hori-sensei, and looks at the “something” we must value. Part three is about the dyeing class that is a part of, and works with the first year students’ weaving class. When the class started, the first thing Hori-sensei said was, “You might sweat a lot today. Let’s do our best.” That is because each student will scour and dye approximately 700 grams of cotton thread this day. This thread will be used to weave cloth, as 1200 warp threads. Hori-sensei says it is important to “not tangle the thread,” which is “more important than dyeing well.”
Scouring is done with each student putting their skeins on a pipe, and soaking them all together in a large pot. The thread absorbs the water and becomes heavy. Using a tool called “Tekagi” to pull up the skeins, which is said to be used by the dyeing craftspeople in Nishijin, students start working after Hori-sensei demonstrates. “Put it (Tekagi) straight through (the skein), and pull up.” “Make sure there is no slack (when pulling up the skein). Please stop if you feel even a tiny bit of resistance.” “When you can’t pull up the skeins because they are too heavy, I want you to let them swim like koinobori (carp streamers) like this.” Hori-sensei gives tips on handling the thread attentively, with careful movements. Taking care not to tangle the thread means to pay attention to it. When the students move the skeins up and down, Hori-sensei’s calls become enthusiastic. The students, who at first were working cautiously, seemed to be getting the hang of it little by little.
“Scouring can be done at this pace, but you should work faster when dyeing. I will demonstrate how I did it when I was working (in the dyeing department).” Hori-sensei said, and turned the skeins using his whole body. The atmosphere immediately became tense, and the students were drawn into his swift and accurate movements. Hori-sensei has focused on dyeing at Kawashima Selkon Textiles Co., Ltd. for 42 years, and when he first joined the company, “working as a pair, would dye 10-20 kilograms of yarn every day.” He says that the first few years doing preparatory work were days of “learning the basic movements of dyeing.” That is why, through experience, he understands the importance of handling yarn.
"Yarn does not necessarily get tangled while dyeing. On the contrary, they get tangled in the steps before and after dyeing," says Hori-sensei. For example, when the skein is placed on a table before dyeing, when it is getting untwisted, when a rod is passed through it, or when they are being rinsed or spin-dryed after dyeing, so Hori-sensei would give advice each time. “Be careful of the angle of the rods so that hot water doesn’t flow out from them." "It’s difficult to wring out the skein when it’s heavy. There is also another way to wring it out, by folding it in thirds.” Hori-sensei kept an eye on everyone so they were careful about how they handled the skeins.
This class is for weaving, and the students each choose a painting, extracts 6 colors used in the painting, and weaves a striped cloth that is 8 meters long. Students choose samples that are similar to the six colors they have chosen, but Kanzome is necessary to match the colors perfectly. The students learn and achieve that sense through communicating with Hori-sensei. After seeing the painting and grasping the image of the colors, Hori-sensei asks the students what they want, and starts giving them advice straight away. “What do you want to do?” “The sample is on the dull side. What color do you think you should add?” “Do you think you should stop here?” Knowledge alone can not make everything work. Since the absorption capacity differs depending on the type of thread, it is absolutely necessary to make judgments on the spot, while observing its state.”
While watching Hori-sensei, I notice that he always has a "listening" attitude. That is the same with yarn, and he pays attention to what it wants. It is not limited to dyeing. There was a scene like this in a previous class. When a student's yarn got tangled, Hori-sensei helped and said, "When this happens, don’t get angry. It gets worse." The cause of this is how the yarn is moved during dyeing, and when being rinsed in water. "If you move it gently in one direction, this doesn’t happen. Haste is waste." he said in a calm tone, and when I looked down at his hands, the yarn unraveled smoothly. He silently fixed the yarn, saying, "Yarn is easier to handle for people with thin fingers, than with rugged hands like mine." Yarn directly reflects the consciousness of the person who handles it. It is compelling to see a skilled dyeing expert valuing the basics of handling yarn. Under the guidance of Hori-sensei, the students attempt to communicate with the thread.
Continued to part 4.
